Phu Quoc
We headed south to Phu Quoc from Hanoi. We were hoping for some proper sunshine here and cleaner air. Compared to Hanoi’s 25 degrees muggy heat and smog, we were expecting a sunny 30 degrees in Phu Quoc.
Phú Quốc is an island off the coast of Cambodia in the Gulf of Thailand. We would split our time here between Sunset town and just outside Phu Quoc town for some more relaxing beach / pool time.
How we got to Phu Quoc
We took the two hour flight from Hanoi with Vietnam airlines. Travelling late morning so that we would have the afternoon to relax and settle into our new surroundings.
We checked in the evening before so just had to get to the airport on time. Looking at our emails on way to the airport, we found one from Vietnam airlines, sent in middle of the night, to say that the flight had been put back an hour. Grrrrr
Private car
After messaging the host of Airbnb, there was no confirmation of an early check-in of a couple of hours. Therefore, we didn’t need her to organise a private car as we decided to go sightseeing first. We ordered a grab cab. Similar to Uber.
As we waited, we saw a name board with my (Miko) name on it. The Airbnb host had sent the cab anyway. This left an awkward situation of cancelling the grab cab just as he arrived. We apologised profusely and took the organised car. The directions and name of the Airbnb had been a bit sketchy so we decided easier to go with the one organised by the host.
Where we stayed – Sunset town
We had a super host coupon from Airbnb to use, so we opted to use it at Sunset town. Although , we didn’t really know it was called sunset town at the time and what to expect of the area.
We found a fresh looking self contained unit with balcony for around £39 per night.
The accommodation
Alarm bells started ringing about the accommodation when we found the exact same photographs under a different named listing. As a superhost myself, I (Miko) know how important accuracy is with a listing and I already had thoughts of possible stock photos being used.
It wasn’t surprising my instincts held true.
There was a bonus of having a pool on the roof top.
Despite only 6 sunbeds for over a 100 plus rooms.
It wasn’t a complete disaster despite the room lacking in additions, such as bedside lamps and pictures on the wall etc. We made do. The bed was clean at least!
While the kitchen had the bare minimum of utensils, there were other positive aspects such as the good sized fridge and washing and drying machines on the balcony.
What to do in Phu Quoc – Sunset town
Since being on the go in Dubai and Hanoi, we wanted to make Phu Quoc a place to relax and to soak up some sunshine. Saying that we still, as always, like to explore a new location, so we had an itinerary in hand.
Exploring Sunset town in Phu Quoc.
Sunset town is a purpose built resort, comprising of thousands of hotel and self catering rooms to go with hundreds of retail units. It’s a fake town that comprises a mix of West World, Toy town and Disney. Sadly, it’s 90% empty and unoccupied.
Sunset town is modelled on Italy. You will find Positano Street, Pompeii, Sorrento, Rome as well as many others.
It’s like someone looked through a picture book of Italy, created their impression, and stuck it all together in one big splurge.
There is also a ‘replica’ of the Roman ruins. It’s quite amusing, actually, in a surreal, animation style, way.
We renamed it Toy town.
It seems the big cooperation, Sun group, estimation of their new project was high and wide of the mark. Two years after completion, many parts are still like a ghost town.
Sometimes you’d mistaken a restaurant for one that was open, as it had made up tables outside screaming for diners.
Kissing Bridge
The kissing bridge is a massive attraction in Sunset town.
The sculpture 400m branches stretch out to meet each other in the middle of the sky, with only 30cm separating them.
A distance just enough for two people to touch each other and exchange kisses.
The bridge seems to bring out the romance in many. Even us lol
The bridge’s story is one of love and connection between people and the universe, honouring humanity.
The kissing bridge plaque talks about technology making us humans lose connection with each other. A truest statement if ever there was one.
Sunset town show and Firework display
The daily show, Kiss of the Sea, and firework display is something else. We had a great view from our balcony.
Every single night, like clockwork, the show will start at 9.30pm, which is very Disney. The shows big finale is the 5 minute firework displays at 10 pm. Firstly, the show is an animation using the fountain, lights, projections and fire to tell a story of good against oppression. It is an impressive array of vibrant colours, shapes; such as stars and hearts, and animation. Great for the families who take up the stadium style seats at the fountain arena.
To celebrate the victory of good, the fireworks explode in the air, with the sound echoing all around, and light up the sky in a fantastic display.
I’m not sure if we lived there, we would welcome the every night spectacle. The novelty would wear off pretty quickly. That kinda says it all for Sunset Town. It doesn’t take long to see through the thin vale of fake happiness.
Fishing village
Before Sunset town was built 2 years ago, you could imagine most of it was like the fishing village.
Simple, unpretentious and real life.
We took a walk down to the fishing village at sunset.
There wasn’t another tourist in sight. We took time to talk to some locals and friendly dogs.
In the town there was a wedding about to take place. The street was a height of activity.
Eating and drinking
Eating for vegetarians at Phu Quoc’s Sunset town was dire and we had the worst pizza we have ever had at an Italiano restaurant.
Luckily there was a big supermarket, so we lived off salads and Bành mi (baguettes).
A certain sleaziness
A German bar had set up in Sunset village with unsavoury shenanigans.
Lady/ boys of the evening dancing outside in scantily clad leather enticing people to go in.
This started around 4/5pm. It was surprising in such a family orientated town.
Loop Jacuzzi pool bar, Phú Quoc.
We did have a few drinks on the Saturday night in Loop Jacuzzi pool bar.
It was a bit of fun taking a dip in the pool while having a beer. They provided a changing room and towels.
It was a great place to catch the Symphony of the Sea show. The Sunset town authorities close the promenade and beach for this, in order to charge for entry. This is a bit counterintuitive, as people just crowd in tight vantage points rather than pay. If they opened it up, it would encourage more visitors.
Phu Quoc town area
We planned to stay just outside Phu Quoc town to check out the other side of the island.
Where we stayed
We stayed in the magical Dusit Princess Moonrise beach hotel.
The lobby was decorated in Christmas delights and even had a grotto!
Even though my birthday had passed in Dubai, Dusit Princess had still left me a reminder, with the bed artistically decorated with natural leaves.
Ooh, and some cake. What a lovely touch!
The room was fresh, a great size, had a good balcony, and plenty of amenities. We relaxed.
What to do in Phu Quoc
This is a beach holiday island. The main premise is to chill and relax. Saying that, there are a few things to do.
Long beach
A pretty stretch of white, powdery sand.
There are a few resorts set back from it, although some were derelict, so it was easy to find a quiet spot away from the sun beds.
Dusit Princess did have complimentary loungers but it was too crammed for our liking.
Lounge by the pool
Dusit Princess’s pool was a great way to find some R&R. They even have a pool bar were you can keep cool and sip on a summer beverage.
Feed & pet some cute street dogs
We can never go anywhere without making friends with fury animals.
Three in particular we became very fond of. A lovely lady and her two pups. We met the da too, but he was mostly off galavanting.
We honestly could have taken them all home. Such lovely characters.
Prison Museum
A war memorial stands south of the prison, on the far side of the road.
Opening hours 8.30am-11.30am / 1.30pm-5pm
Admission is free.
Dinh Cau temple
Dinh Cau Rock, also known as Cau Temple Thien Hau (the goddess of the sea), is believed to provide protection for fishermen.
The temple features a brightly colored lighthouse and Buddhist shrine.
You will climb 29 winding stone steps to reach Cau Temple’s rooftop terrace.
From here you will be able to enjoy the views of Dinh Cau Beach, traditional fishing boats.
Dinh Ba temple
Beside Dinh Cau temple, Dinh Ba temple pays homage to Thuy Long Thanh Mau, who is considered the first person to discover this Island.
She was believed to be a woman from the family of Cambodian kings.
She tried to escape to Phu Quoc island from the enemy. At that time, she created a field of grass to feed the buffalo herds that she brought with her.
Phu Quoc locals consider her as the one who discovered and built this island and honored her as Thuy Long Thanh Mau, so the people of Phu Quoc held a ceremony to worship her on the full moon day of January every year.
Phu Quoc National Park
Phu Quoc National Park is one of the rare national parks in Vietnam that still retains the original old forest intact. The park also seemly converges many beauties of the various landscape of forests, sea, waterfalls and mountains. However, we were unfortunate not to gain access. The roads are a mess and difficult, especially when wet on on a moped, a 4×4 would be much better. The roads are also used a lot my the army. (Army barracks in the area). We also heard there are many muggings. We usually like doing sights independently, however on this occassion a guide may be necessary.
Starfish beach (Sao beach)
Starfish beach, with its original name being Sao beach is in the north of the island. For the last few kilometres, the beach is reached by a pot holed dirt road. Be prepared for a 15/20 minutes bumpy ride. Also, you’ll notice, as you start down the dirt track, that you’ll get a buddy tagging along with you. They “kindly” point you in the right direction. Ours stayed slightly distant, in front, but we knew he had marked us as potential.
Even though we entered a pretty white sandy beach, we were disappointed when we got there.
There were no starfish. You have to get a boat to to see the starfish. That’s were our buddy came in. He parked beside us and the boat trip sells started. We politely shut him down immediately.
Along the beach, peering from the shacks, the hawkers will watch for the lost tourists. Scampering out from the cafes, they then approach them, then follow close to you.
On the way out, we saw this happen to every tourist approaching along the dirt track. It is a well oiled machine.
There is no rest on the beach. You will be approached every second.
Before we made the decision to board a boat, we did a little research online, and glad we did. It seems there are more dead starfish than alive ones. Stupid tourists throw them about like trash once they are done with their fake instagram pictures. Animal cruelty at its finest.
The locals aren’t any better.
Ham Ninh fishing town
Located on the east coast of Phu Quoc island.
Ham Ninh fishing is a peaceful little place,hidden at the foot of Ham Ninh mountain, on provincial Road 47, Ham Ninh commune, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang.
It has a certain charm as locals get on with their daily lives at shop fronts. It is also a hub for Phu Quoc restaurants to get their seafood.
Su Muon Pagoda Buddhist temple
It’s a little confusing they call it ancient, when Su Moun Pagoda was built in the 1930s. Although there is a 200 year old Konia tree, which shades you from the hot sun. Still it is a relatively old, sacred place, which was built by Nguyen Kim Mon, who was actually a business man, but then later found spiritual enlightenment and became a Buddhist monk.
There is a peaceful feeling at the site and the traditional architecture design admist the forest. You can feel the spirituality as you wander the gardens.
Climb the 60 stone steps to the white statue of Quan the am bo tat, the goddess of mercy, that stands in front of the pagoda. She is the most popular devotion in Vietnam. In the West she is more commonly known by her Chinese name, Kwan Yin. Shrines to her are to be found everywhere in Vietnam, in people’s houses, on streetsides, in temples.
The 200 year old tree stands behind the sitting Gautama Buddha.
Flanked by a artistically painted tiger rock, the colourful grounds are peaceful and inspiring.
Further up the hill lies the huge, 350 tonne, Sakyamuni Buddha. Resplendant in white marble with protective green draggons at the base of the stairs.
Grand World
Another manmade town. Its seems to be all the rage!
Completed in 2021, Grand World is similar to Sunset Town.
This was even more emptier than sunset town, another ‘grand’ idea not working.
It is in the middle of nowhere set off a main road, so you definitely need transport.
There were some nice sculptures to snap at, embodying Vietnamese culture and symbols like the lotus and the bronze drum.
Eating and drinking
Gotta love a bite to eat and some vino to wash it down with.
Rory’s bar
We heard from the grapevine that you could see starfish at Rory’s bar at the other side of the island.
Rory’s is an unpretentious resort and we were welcomed by Aussies Rory and Nick themselves.
On entering, there was a shipwreak turned into their kitchen. Pretty awesome.
The resort has some bungalows on site and we were wishing we knew about them beforehand. The place was very relaxed with some typical humourous additions and some cool surf boards.
The starfish!
We weren’t disappointed! As sat in the rock pool was a few brightly coloured starfish.
We didn’t take the best pictures, but we were contented we saw them, and no silly tourists lifting them either for their Instagram photos!
Rabbit hole
Irish bars get everywhere. The Rabbit hole is a drinking den for vagabonds, waifs and strays who venture into Phu Quoc. There is a bit of a sleaziness to the bar. Additionally, some clowns run around, following the latest interesting trend, getting a high from sucking balloons. I guess our highlight was meeting a lovely Scottish couple, Martha and James!
Pepper Tree
The Pepper Tree is part of the La Veranda resort hotel. It is one of the best fine dining restaurants we have eaten in around the world.
The attention to detail, surroundings and taste sensation wass magnificent.
Saigonese Bakery
A modern cafe serving excellent cakes and pastries, as well as pottery. (I couldn’t resist purchasing handcrafted Buddha bowls).
They also just recently started serving an extensive wine list. Unfortunately the wine never arrives, as the list is so extensive they don’t have it in stock, or have to go and hunt it down in the store.
You do need the patience of a saint in this place as painfully slow lol
Pizza Camia
We ate twice at this restaurant. Once a takeaway and the next a sit down meal. The restaurant is similar to a Pizza Express kind of joint. It was clean and modern. The staff are friendly, especially Throng who was very helpful re vegetarian requirements. Other dishes on the menu weren’t great for veggies, but we did enjoy the delicious pizza.
Dusit Princess
We had breakfast here daily. A good range of breads, cheese, vegetables, eggs, rice and fruit. The breakfast certainly set us up for the day until dinner time.
We also had a lovely dinner one evening in the garden where a band was playing. We even had the pleasure of meeting the chef Ben, to ensure everything was pure vegetarian.
Would we recommend Phu Quoc?
Off course! We especially enjoyed the sunny climate of Phu Quoc, and it was interesting seeing two different sides of the island, such as the town itself and the newly made Sunset Town. There’s a happy medium, easy sightseeing and beach/pool time and that’s how we like it.
If you liked reading, you may like to check out our other trips in Vietnam.
Hanoi
Cat Ba
