Palolem, our second home
After our dream destination trip in the Maldives’ Kooddoo Island we decided to take a trip to South Goa at Palolem beach. Over the years it had been our second home due to our beloved Martha, a dog that stole our hearts.
Eight years have past since our last visit to say goodbye to Martha. Originally we had hoped to go to Palolem, and north India, in 2020, but we all know what happened then.
India was also the country that lagged behind in opening up and still had jab and testing rules. We refused to go at that time. Now opened without the nonsense rules, we had to go back and see what has changed and, of course, to see some familiar faces.
With Martha’s sweet soul in our hearts we were looking forward to meeting some of her kindred spirit beach dogs. We may have sadness without the physical Martha but these wee souls enrich us. Indeed, they are a joy to be with ❤️
How we got to Palolem in South Goa
We flew in from Mumbai, where we landed from the Maldives on an Air India flight. Then, It was only a 1 hour flight to Goa.
We had allowed 2 hrs 30 mins between flights. Indeed, that should have been plenty. We had to run, though, due to a 50 minute delay getting off the air India flight. Some of that was due to a later than scheduled takeoff. Unbelievably, most of it was due to delays in opening the doors after landing.
Racing to Palolem
Hence, we had to pick up the pace. We, with another couple having a connecting flight, hopped on a buggy to get us to immigration.
Here, we expected the usual queues. Unbelievably, the immigration hall was deserted. It’s seems 4 / 5 pm is a good time to land in Mumbai.
Flying through this, we then dashed through the baggage hall, bypassing the need to wait as we travel with hand luggage only as much as possible. Then onto the domestic transfer desk.
This was a new experience and kinda takes you up the back stairs to the departure gates. A single security section, with no queues, meant that was relatively simple. Although, there is the usual rigmarole of putting all electric items, including charging leads etc, out of the bag. This is such a pain.
Finally, we grabbed some food to bring on board the flight and swiftly walked to the furthest domestic departure gate in T2. Phew, we made it.
Flight cost with Air India Express, Mumbai to Dabolim airport in Goa (be aware there are now 2 airports in Goa, with the other being way up north) was 38,000 rupees – approx £350 return total. This was a bit more than we would have liked to pay but we were locked in with times and dates. Being the weekend definitely didn’t help.
Pre paid taxi to south Goa
We were already discovering prices had hiked since our last visit 8 years ago. Even a pre paid cab had gone up from 1500 rupees, although we often haggled cheaper from Palolem, up 2180 rupees + 50 rupees airport exit fee.
The journey time is a approximately 1 and a half hours to Palolem in South Goa. Prepay the taxi at the government prepay stand to ensure you get correct fare. They give you a ticket with the driver number. We also used the airport ATM to ensure we had cash to pay for it.
Arriving at Palolem in South Goa
Arriving shattered, but at the same time excited, on Knox’s special day, we were met by our mate Raj who directed the taxi to follow him on the motorcycle down the sandy track.
All felt so familiar. However, it was easy to see some big changes. Indeed, there was now a big hotel on the main road. At least they are still unable to build within 200 metres of the beach.
Accommodation
Raj opened the accomodation business in 2019, and was throttled with the lockdown. We were happy to give him our money, and at 2000 rupees / approx £18 a night with a room that was literally right on the beach, we were content.
A lot simpler than our Maldives accommodation and a fraction of the price. However, in Palolem, we always liked the more simple life. It’s not all about the luxurious lifestyle.
Opening the door to a sandy carpet and hearing the rush of the Indian ocean was a blessing.
As well as our dog pack.
Well them wonders are priceless.
After big hugs with Raj, we headed for a couple of beers to a familiar haunt, Cuba on the beach.
A sweet gesture of a birthday pancake was awaiting.
We also had our trusty washing line with us. Although, some clothes pegs went missing, as well as chairs. If it’s not tied down and someone fancies it, then say goodbye to it!
Privacy
In India privacy is an alien concept. They are kinda accustomed to living on top of each other, especially in big cities, with less defined borders. This spills out in Palolem when the Indian tourists, and even foreigners, descend.
Outside our room was a veranda, with a closed gated area, and a shaded bit just beyond. The boundary was clearly shown. However, this didn’t stop people coming in, taking chairs for the private space, and plonking right outside our room. Incredulously, this is even with a large open and clear area of beach just in front. Most annoyingly is when people would do this late at night.
Ah well, we smiled and coped with the small issues.
White tax (foreign tourist) in India.
Without focusing on it too much, there is a need to point out to the wokeness that there is often a local price and then a separate price to tourists. This is quietly known, amongst many travellers, as the white tax (Foreigner tax). Indeed, it’s something that happens across many countries of the world.
Increasingly, in cash rich Goa, the room for haggling has narrowed dramatically. A wee nudge with some of the locals in Palolem, South Goa, will get a better price for some goods and services. This is fine when they see us as regular visitors and allow a little wiggle room.
Morally correct?
If this happened in the Ireland, the UK, or Europe there would be outrage. Racism and all manner of slurs would be slung at the perpetrators. Is it right or wrong, morally correct, or just a way of life? Who are we to judge?
Prices will vary and it’s good to know the value of products within a country. Some will have a price printed on the packet. Other things, such as scooter hire or rickshaw rides, fruit and veg stalls etc are more murky. For tourists, often local syndicates will set a minimum price between them for such costs that will be quite a bit higher than a local would pay. Its a bit more than mates rates.
It has been like this for years and is likely to continue.
What to do in Palolem
We were here to mostly chill and meet with friends, we hadn’t seen in several years.
Except for Navresh and Dee, who we saw in Belfast in 2024 when their cruise ship sailed into Belfast.
It’s always great to see our Indian brother and we’ve made some great memories over the years.
Our good friend Varsha also popped down from Mumbai.
Lots of merriment was had.
As well as that there was wtime to meet with Raj Rumba, Raj Cuba and Cheeky.
Also not forgetting new friends.
Recommendations
If its your first time in Palolem, here is a handful of things we’d recommend.
Volunteer at ARC
The ARC, Animal Rescue Centre, is approximately 15 minutes drive away.
As well as our beloved Martha’s grave at the site, who we took a beautifully made orange / yellow garland to, we also like to volunteer our time when we can.
Whether its playing with the puppies, feeding, grooming, or taking the dogs for a walk, your time is greatly appreciated at Arc. Indeed, there are a large number of animals needing care.
They also have dogs boarding there, when their owners go on holiday.
I fell in love with a fluffy German Shepherd. A big softy! We each took a dog on a walk and several others followed, loving the company. Also our friend Varsha, was with us visiting from Mumbai.
Feed and give much needed love to the stray beach dogs or even a cow!
How could you not?!
There’s so many dogs in need of a meal.
Animal rescue centre do their best to sterilise the dog population, however it’s not easy to control, then puppies come along.
You’ll know the sterilised dogs, by a clip on the ear.
You’ll even get random dogs coming up to you on the beach and spending an hour or two with you. As well as biscuits, we carry a cut water bottle or a coconut shell. Dogs love the water and sometimes people can forget dogs can get dehydrated too, so they appreciate a drink to cool from the hot sun.
Just like us, the dogs like to sunbathe and take a wee dip in the cool waters.
Cows
The cows can get everywhere. Whether it’s going to restaurant entrances begging for food, laying in the middle of the road, or lounging on the beach.
The cow is boss, holy and not many people will mess with it. Even me (Miko) when I got headbutted on the butt, I didn’t argue and ran like he’ll lol
Relax on the beach
Whether it’s lounging, sunbathing, meditating, walking or jogging on the crescent shape, one mile beach.
Or, watching the fascinating crabs go about their daily business.
Or having a snack in one of the beach restaurants, the Palolem stretch is a great way to unwind.
The crabs are elusive to catch a good photo of.
They run and hide at first sight of humans. Also, they are food for the wading birds at the rocks down by the river.
Patience is needed but worthwhile to see the wee criters.
Busy Palolem
One can still find quiet spots on the beach, between some boats, where restaurants are closed, or up at the north end. However, Palolem is a busy spot for rampant tourism, both Indian and foreign, and the beach shows it at times. Sunbeds are plonked out much more than regulations allow. Added to that, when the sun goes down, the tables are turned for dinner.
Everybody is making money so the officials don’t care.
Even the beggars and mystic deity devotees are crossing the Karnataka border to make some cash.
Kayak and body boarding at Palolem.
Palolem in South Goa is not renowned for big surf. However, there are still water activities to do. The relatively small waves allow for a bit of body boarding. Additionally, with the good weather and fairly calm seas, the active types can hire kayaks along the beach.
Boat trip
It’s a long time since we took a boat trip. However it’s possible to see some dolphins and even monkeys at Monkey Island (another beach).
There are also boat trips, usually in the local fishing boats that have been adapted for tourism, to butterfly beach. The boat association has set up a price list to make things more regulated and transparent. However, you’ll still get asked by others as you walk up the beach and prices will vary.
Yoga
Many people come to India to take part in yoga retreats or classes. There are plenty available in the area to find one you’re comfortable with.
Cooking classes
Learn how to cook some authentic Indian dishes. Again, there are plenty of options. Near where we stayed, there were two.
See some live music
Palolem has an even better live music scene than previous. There is a variety of music and the talent of some is undeniable.
Watch the sunset
There is something very special about Palolem and it’s sunsets are no exception. We have a long connection with the village and it’s inhabitants.
Watching the Palolem sunsets, when the magic hour transforms the whole beach into a golden, orange glow, reflected in the ocean, is a scene to behold.
Many people flock to the beach to witness it’s incredible, glorious, mesmerizing sight. The power of the Palolem sunsets, stop everyone in their tracks and reminds us that no matter how difficult life can be, when we pause, for just a moment, and see what mother nature shows us, it’s easier to dream of better days. Then life moves forward in a more uplifting way.
Hire a moped
After a bit of haggling, we got a price of 400 rupees for scooter hire.
We would use this to run a few errands in Chaudi, the main town of Canacona area and close to Palolem in South Goa. Indeed, Chaudi is only a few KMs away.
It was a Saturday so the dusty town was buzzing with the market and people doing their weekly shop.
Traffic was crazy. You must blow your horn here to make your presence known. Its surely precarious!
Take a walk down by the river
Palolem in South Goa, has many options for walks. Whether it be up and down the mile long crescent, beach hopping between Palolem and it’s close neighbours like Patnem, or walking down by the river.
Martha was always happy down by the river, so this is a favourite spot of ours. It’s peaceful and quiet with great views across the river and into the hills that look over Palolem.
Wildlife spotting
Wildlife can still be seen in and around Palolem in South Goa, and indeed throughout India, so be ready to take a quick snap. Leopards have been seen frequently in recent times around the villages inland on the coast. We didn’t get to see any. However, we did catch some monkeys navigating a road crossing while on the scooter.
A rustling in the undergrowth can lead to interesting discoveries. It’s not always easy to catch a good photo but there are good varieties of lizards and snakes about.
Birds are also prevalent from eagles to kingfishers and lots in between.
Get a Shave
I (Knox) don’t normally do the full wet shaven thing unless I’m in Palolem in South Goa. Being follicly challenged, I generally just go fully round my head and face with the hair clippers.
However, in Palolem, I always get a regular shave in Adil’s place. Try out the head massage too!
Take a walk through the village
Seeing the little shack houses or huts off the beach and roadside is worth a walk. The palms will shade you from the hot sun and it’s a great way to say hello to the locals.
You will also see many kingfisher birds with their bright blues and greens. Stunning. There are actually a few types of Kingfisher, such as the stork billed, white throated and the collared Kingfisher. Unfortunately, they’re so fast a decent photo is difficult to get.
You will make friends with other dogs in the area who are mostly owned and sit outside various houses.
Eating and drinking
There is a variety of food places in Palolem. Since we were there first in 1999, it has surely grown. In fact, in that period you could only find a handful. Some would call that progress.
Here’s our recommendations:
Nireas
We would say it’s the best ‘western’ food at the moment in Palolem.
Nepali owned, its certainly popular. We have had both breakfast and dinners here. Each meal is presented beautifully.
Staff are welcoming and friendly.
You can choose breakfast from a variety of eggs, to avocado, hummus etc all on homemade bread with garnish on the side.
They have lovely veggie and bean burgers for us veggies during the dinner menu.
Wash all down with one of their detox smoothies or juices. Everything is so fresh and great portions.
They do sell alcohol, although don’t expect to get good prices for the wine, they have hiked it up extortionately compared to other restaurants in Palolem.
Palolem beach resort
Palolem beach resort has been one of the originals. We remember it from the beginning. Darmesh, the owner (also mayor around the Candolim area in Goa), grows the businesses each year. He also has a few establishments called Cuba, one that is also on the beach. It’s always great to catch up with Darmesh for each time we pop in, which is quite regular.
We actually go here for more of an Indian culinary experience. The aloo gobi, nan, vegetable pakoras are so good and not to be missed!
It’s also a chance to spend some time with ‘Cheeky’, our friend Mangesh. Always smiling, he will look after you well.
Kevin, Nitesh, Rudra, Sneha, Sunita, Raj, among the others are fabulous too.
As well as that you have the resident pooch Chuto on site, who is the top boss!
Unfortunately the wee old gent is sick with a throat tumour. We pray he gets well soon. He’s loved by everybody and so well looked after, especially by Kevin.
Ciarans
Ciarans has been in Palolem for as long as we remember back to 1999. Very different now from the ramshackle beach bar way back then.
Owned by an Irish guy and a Goan wife, it has some fabulous dishes such as vegetable lasagna and off course mash potato!
Live music is on most nights. Bare in mind it gets so busy in the evening that it maybe best to reserve a table.
Tapas
Also a new addition to Ciaran’s complex, it’s a lovely little place, right next to the main restaurant.
Friendly staff and beautiful pink bougainvillea which reminded us of Greece and Marbella.
Namaste
We ate in Namaste a couple of times. In all honesty it’s hit and miss due to the service being extremely slow.
However the cauliflower cheese dish is reasonable as are some veg dishes.
There is also live music few nights a week.
Bella Kitchen
They do a variety of food, but are mostly known for the pizzas. However, if you’ve tasted Magic Italy (run by authentic Italian owners, who has now shut its doors) you will be disappointed.
Saying that the pizzas aren’t the worst in the world. The crust/ dough is delicious and they put on generous toppings. However, theres something about the tomato sauce which didn’t tickle my (Mikos) taste buds. Knox didn’t mind it though!
The Mount
Our friend Joe owns the place about a 5 minute drive from Palolem beach.
Get ready for a steep climb.
And, if you’re feeling even more active, there’s a trampoline at the top!
The Mount is totally handcrafted from natural materials.
Everything from the huts to the furniture.
There are lovely touches everywhere you look, hidden among the trees.
It reminded us of places in Ireland, like a fairytale.
There’s even a cute puppy called Doey. Dopey Doey we called him.
It is a great place for kids to run around and explore. The place was packed with kids when we were there. As they were playing, the adults were enjoying the music entertainment that regularly gets put on.
It was brilliant to see they had no technology in hand and were enjoying the nature instead.
Shiv Sai Thali House
Gotta have a Thali when in India. We like a more traditional restaurant for this. While we were at Palolem in South Goa, Shiv Sai did the trick. Delicious.
Zafferano
The setting and decor is pretty and relaxed with a nice atmosphere. Staff are welcoming and friendly.
We both had pasta dishes, dessert and tried some delicious wine tasting.
My only gripe is that the ravoli wasn’t cut like it was supposed to be (it was just a huge rectangle), so presentation was a let down. However it still tasted good and we loved the lemoncello at the end of the meal. Recommended.
Manveer’s Kitchen
It had been a long time since we saw Manveer and family. He had been a life saviour when Martha was ill, when we weren’t in India. Knox and Manveer also cooked up a storm in his last restaurant in Palolem.
Now Manveer and family have moved on from Palolem. They are in Agonda, a beach village about 15 minute drive from Palolem beach.
Manveer’s kitchen and accommodation is a little sanctuary and you will be treated to Manveer’s culinary skills.
Also onsite are the playful family pets.
Road side food cart
Sometimes you want something simpler. You can great samosa’s and other snacks at road side food stalls.
Off licence
Another great chill out is to watch the sunset from the comfort of your own back yard. Grab a wee drink from Red Rose. Divikar is a lovely man and always serves with a smile.
Cheaper services
Some services, like phone repair are cheaper than the UK/Ireland. We got a screens fixed for less than £20 each. Saving a whopping £40/£50 each.
Would we recommend Palolem?
Absolutely! Although, it can be a bit like the ‘Hotel California’, once you’re there, you may never want to leave lol
Leaving our second home
We arranged a good enough price for a cab to the airport with OJ, who we’ve known for years.
Off course, there was tears. All the dogs weren’t their usual energetic selves, sensing we were on the road. We hope they’ll have more dog lovers staying and they give them as much attention as we did.
Luckily Raj will be there to keep an eye on them.
The flight to Mumbai went smoothly enough, except for a dictator at security refusing to let us take our trusted washing line. So silly as we have had it for over a decade and it’s travelled all around the world with us. Our beautiful yellow twine gone forever. Grrrr Lol
Stopover
We had a 10 hour stopover at the Fairfield in Mumbai to get some kip before the Virgin Atlantic flight. This just broke up the long, tedious journey before Heathrow then Belfast.
Fairfield by Marriott
Interesting that after the Mumbai attacks, years ago, each hotel have security still.
A bit like in an airport where you place your bags in a scanner. They also checked our Ubers car boot and bonnet for anything suspicious.
Definitely not the Radisson on our last Mumbai visit. We paid for the Fairfield £130 a night. Although we only needed it for 10 hours due to our flight being at 4am.
It was a chore to get clean towels/ sheets despite moving rooms. Not up to Marriott standard.
There was a nice view though, of a game of cricket taking place. As well as this you could see flights coming and going and well soundproofed.
Would we recommend the Fairfield? In our opinion the Radisson is better and not much difference in price.
Airport
A loud bang like a gunshot had us all in a panic. Happy to say it turned out to be a bottle of booze exploding in a passengers bag. We were all shaken up but glad it wasn’t anything sinister. The cute Lab sniffer dog was brought in to confirm matters.
On to the next adventures!
If you liked reading, you maybe interested to check out are previous writings in:
