Maldives, Kooddoo Island – A Dreamy escape
The Maldives has always been high on the dreamy escape list with the Maldives, Kooddoo island becoming the focus over 5 years ago. We had originally prepped for booking back at the end of 2019, but then our plans got brutally cancelled due to the plandemic.
With 26 atolls and 1,000+ islands spread out across the idyllic waters of the Indian Ocean, the Maldives are an island-hopper’s dream.
We were looking forward to diving right in them crystal clear waters! The Maldives Kooddoo resort looked perfect for what we wanted.
How we got to the Maldives, Kooddoo Island.
After the fiasco with BA on our trip going to Dubai and Vietnam, last November, we had been nervous about this getaway. Our planned time in the Maldives, Kooddoo Island, was short enough. Therefore, and delays were out of the question. We already had BA booked again so it was too late to choose another option. Besides, BA is the only real option to fly from Belfast to Heathrow. To allow for mishaps, we had decided to fly in from Belfast City airport the evening before our main flight and have a night in our usual Heathrow hotel. Therefore, we had an allowance for any last minute changes to the schedule. Thankfully, the weather behaved and all went smoothly.
We choose the cheap, clean and convenient Premier Inn at Bath Road before catching our Virgin Atlantic flight at 11.20am on the Saturday. We also added an extra tenner to the booking so we had the plus room with a fridge. A must for our bag full of travel food.
The Virgin flight – A circuitous route to the Maldives, Kooddoo Island.
While Virgin do fly direct to the Maldives main island of Male, there was no option to use our stockpile of Virgin points. Therefore, we flew to Mumbai instead and organised to connect to Male from there.
There was no chance of much sleep, on the flight, due to our chatty neighbour beside us. She was a character. Born in India, but living in London since a child, she had us in stitches, as she told us her life story, everything from menopause, being covid jab injured, to her special needs 13 year old.
She also invented an illness, to get a wheelchair when landing in Mumbai, due to the long walk to get to immigration. Lol
We legged it to get through immigration as quickly as possible. Half way there, we managed to nab a lift on a cart, with an older couple who sat in front of us on the flight, to the envy of other passengers.
The return flights to Mumbai cost us £550 total as we used our Virgin Atlantic flying club points and only had to pay the taxes.
Mumbai stop over
After a 8 hrs 50 minute flight we rolled into our Mumbai hotel at around 2.30am. The Radisson was a great choice. Only a convenient 10 minutes away from the airport, it was also modern and clean. It was expensive for the only few hours we needed it, at £130.00 but worth it for the much needed shower and comfy bed.
We managed a couple of hours kip before we were on the move again the next morning at 8.30am.
Getting through security and immigration
It was one of the worst experiences getting through security and immigration. Slow and tedious. This was on the way out! The Immigration was a disgrace. Officers would just get up and leave from their counters, leaving passengers in the line confused and frustrated. ‘Typical Government workers’, a local commented to us.
Mumbai to Male – a step closer to Kooddoo.
We boarded the Indigo, short 2hr.30 mins flight to Male, the official name being, Velana International Airport. Located in the North Malé Atoll, the country’s main transport hub, stretches the only runway on the island of Hulhule. Only 10 minutes by boat from the capital of the Maldives, or a 15 mins car ride across the connecting bridge, we would get to see Male on the way back.
The view from the plane was wow and excitement was building.
Waiting outside for our driver we took in the tremendous view at the airport.
Hotel charters and speed boats, as well as the public boat, were ferrying passengers to their destinations.
It was a glorious sight of turquoise waters under the hot sunny blue skies.
The airport was a busy one, where everyone was entering the island they always dreamed of.
Where we stayed in Male
Before our flight to the resort the next day we decided to sleep of the rest of the jetlag so we could enjoy our resort experience with fresh eyes.
Accommodation
We choose Amber beach hotel about 15 drive away from the airport. Located in Hulhumale, It wasn’t anything fancy at £100 a night (a lot more if we hadn’t booked in advance).
There were a few issues with stained linen and towels, which were sorted right away. However the standard didn’t live up to the cost.
It did the job though before we flew into our luxurious resort the next day.
A great addition they had was a rooftop cafe with views over the town and stretch of beach.
A lovely little suntrap away from the traffic.
Getting acquainted
We took a walk around the dusty town of Hulhumale. The stunning white sandy beach was right across from the hotel.
Unfortunately though, because it was a strict Muslim country, there would be no stripping down to swimwear.
We did dip our toes in the warm water as we spied a woman in a full burka having a splash and a few men enjoying some water activities.
There was a lot of construction going on as well as a mall, eateries, supermarkets and fresh fruit and veg stalls.
Feeling dry
There was no chance of a cold beer or sparkle, unless the ‘zero’ kind, due to the Maldives being alcohol free. That is, of course, different at the island resorts.
We did meet a cute cat though!
Feeling a bit zonked we opted for an early night after a takeaway pizza from Basilios Pizzeria.
Last leg to destination Paradise – Kooddoo Island.
Our dream was finally touchable! Elated, we were giddy with excitement.
Around 6 pm on Feb 2nd, we got an email itinerary for our flight to Kooddoo. After expecting a 12:10 pm flight, we were advised that it had been moved to the 7:25 am flight. So much for our planned lie in and recovery time. It would be another very early start.
Our flight to our little sunny island took only 50 minutes. It was the most expensive short distance flight we have ever taken, costing £650 return for 2 people.
The system
There is a system which is strictly laid out to get to the islands. Everything is communicated to a T. Whether that’s between the Male hotel and the resort, and the resort hotel and airline.
We were emailed our itinerary for the day. You only get this the evening before. With our 7:25 am flight, we would have a 4 am start. Hard going, especially as sleep didn’t come easily. However, after a quick phonecall, we confirmed that our over water bungalow would be ready on our arrival. With a lack of choice, what else was there to do but be happy to go along with the schedule.
At the airport, all is taken care for you.
Male airport – domestic terminal.
Ourselves, and other tourists, were met by a representative of our Kooddoo resort who took us by the hand to check us in. Once done, he showed us to the private lounge to relax before the flight. And, Knox took the opportunity to get stuck into the complimentary buffet breakfast.
Arriving at Maldives, Kooddoo Island.
Finally, after 4 flights, 3 hotels, and all our struggles with immigration, we had finally arrived on Kooddoo Island. What a journey!
Maldives, Kooddoo Island
At the tiny airport, the resort representative met us, and others, just outside. The airport is the drop point for a few resorts dotted across the Huvadhu Atoll, and indeed the rest of the administrative area of the Gaafu Alif Atoll.
The others would all have to get speed boats out to the other islands. We, on the other hand, had a 5 minute golf cart ride to our resort. Before we drove off, we all got a beautifully woven necklace put around our necks.
At reception, while we were checked in, our bags were whisked off to the room.
We were greeted by Ksenia, Raushan and Naveer to fill in some documentation. They looked after us well and got us through the process swiftly.
Afterwards Raushan, our smiley driver, brought us to our room, pointing out some sights on the way.
We were blown away at how stunning the resort was.
The accommodation
– Mercure Kooddoo resort
The over water bungalow met every expectation. There was even a glass bottom in part of the room, to watch the different variety of fish.
A cool addition to the bathroom was an outside bathtub.
It wasn’t all glam though!
We made use of it for our laundry and our yellow washing line, which has been an essential, and has come with us for years all around the world, was handy. It saved us paying the 5/7 dollar cost per item at the resort facilities!
What to do at the resort?
The resort offers pure chill time as well as a handful of activities which was just what we wanted.
Snorkeling
A must do in the Maldives. Snorkeling gives you the opportunity to interact with the sea life up close and personal.
The water is so clear that you can spot the sea creatures swimming past the over water bungalow. However, snorkeling gives another dimension altogether.
Best reef in the Maldives?
The resort staff kept saying that Kooddoo’s reef was one of the best in the Maldives. Generally, you feel, that’s what invested people will always say about something that’s close to their heart and business. Often, it can be a let down. We were about to see.
Weirdly, neither of us had properly snorkeled before. As children, we had cheap snorkels, bought at chilly Irish seaside resorts, that would leak at the edges. Generally, the water would be too murky to see much.
Anyway, in the Maldives, Kooddoo gave an opportunity to try again. Even, without a mask, the waters were so crystal clear that the colourful, tropical fish were so easy to see. Excitement welled up to take a swim with the fishes.
Dive centre
As much as I wanted to, and I wish I had a bit more time, I (Knox) decided to walk before running. A dive would have to wait, and snorkeling would give a great intro to what was on offer.
We had expected the snorkel equipment to be charged. To our surprise, when we spoke to Afu at the dive centre, we found the snorkel equipment was free of charge for the duration. That would give ample opportunity to test the waters.
Afu, fitted us out for snorkels and flippers. The flippers are so cumbersome and made us feel like wearing clown shoes! He also showed the reef. The inner reef, around the over water villas are shallow amid the turquoise sea. The darker navy of the Indian ocean indicates the dramatic drop at the reef shelf. Yes, there is a bit of intrepidation to go out that far. However, there is an overriding excitement of what it would reveal. We just had to be conscious of the power of the ocean.
While Afu advised us of different group trips, where they take you out and show what they feel are the best bits, we decided to give the solo snorkeling a go from our Villa steps. We took photos of the cards detailing fish native to the Maldives, Kooddoo and off we went.
Baby steps from the Villa steps.
While we could see the reef shelf only 20/30 metres away, we wanted to test the snorkel equipment around our villa. From the glass floor window, we could see activity around the patch of coral there. This would be a good test point.
The crystal clear waters showed there was an abundance of marine life. Quite how much was revealed by the goggles. It was a wow moment, with special mention to the spotted unicornfish. They were so friendly and happy to swim close by.
To the Kooddoo reef!
Appetite well and truly whetted, it was time to venture into the reef. It was abundantly clear that we would see all manner of fish as the coral thickened only a few metres from the villa steps. Multi coloured fish, bright and vibrant, swam about their daily day. Thin, round, long, short, big lips, tiny mouths, fins, spikes, horns, spots, stripes, beards, long strands, stout fins, feathery bits…………….. The variety, designs and styles were vast.
We decided to hire a GoPro for an hour. This will better show some of what we saw. It was beautiful.
As the reef shelf approached, one could see the change of sea colour from the turquoise to navy.
And from the shallow waters, the depth drops off to the abyss. It is a wow moment. A connection to the immense power of the ocean. We were a visitor amongst the shoals of fish, from tiny to large, and all with watchful eyes on the intruders.
The reefs big three
The dream was to see at least one of the big three while snorkeling the reef. These were sharks, manta rays and turtles. How was our luck?
Some black tip reef sharks were first to circle in like watchful police.
The excitement level then rose as a manta ray nonchalantly glided past.
The elation was mega as we hit the hat trick and caught sight of a retreating turtle. We couldn’t have asked for a better result!
Diving a bit deeper is definitely on the agenda for next time.
Bike ride on Kooddoo
The resort literally takes around 20 minutes to get around.
Although you may come across a bit of a traffic jam lol
So the bike ride is that of island life. Slow and not getting very far lol
Take your time and stop off and admire the, “pinch me. Am I really here” views.
You can watch the colourful fishes beneath the turquoise, crystal clear waters.
Even the workers got around on bikes and trikes.
The organic garden
As two organic purchasers, we absolutely loved the fact that the resort grew many of their own organic produce.
Bigger than first realised, there was everything from mint, basil, aloe Vera, garlic, a variety of different salad leaves, sweet corn, papaya and much more delicious chemical free food.
We tasted a lot of produce, whether that was at one of the two restaurants, for one of our delightful evening meals, or an immune boosting shot at breakfast.
It certainly was a huge highlight that the resort offered.
The pool
The pool is another way to cool down from the glorious sunshine and take in more of the splendid vistas.
The beach
If you’re looking for different scenery to tickle your taste buds, head to Kooddoo’s salty seas and the white sandy beach, just a stroll over the boardwalk.
You will pass Beach huts among the trees, Vista Italian restaurant opposite, and a instagram worthy swing you can play on till your hearts content.
Watch a sunset
A perfect way to close the day, is to watch the Kooddoo sunset.
Not the most dramatic sunset (like Acapulco) we have seen on our travels.
Nevertheless, it had a charming glow, giving a sense of contemplating how blessed we were to finally reach another dream.
Making use of the beautiful accommodation
Since you pay so much for the accommodation, it would be silly not to make use of the overwater bungalow.
Whether it was checking out the colourful fish on our glass bottom in the room, snorkeling, sunbathing or just admiring the wonderful dreamy vistas.
It was a really beautiful, comfortable accommodation to chill in.
The nest
Part of the Kooddoo resort, you have the nest. When not doing yoga, you can just relax in the garden and swing the day away.
Or if that doesn’t take your fancy, how about a hammock in another part of the tremendous garden!
The staff
The staff deserve a huge mention due to their superb hospitality. Always looking to enhance one’s stay and make everything perfect. We’ve mentioned the lovely welcome from Front of house above. Below are mentions for the others.
Raushan, especially, has such happy vibes, giving us a lift when needed.
Housekeeping
Housekeeping offered to clean the room twice a day and left the room spotless. A special mention to Jilianus (possibly spelt incorrectly) for the creative natural art work for my (Knox) birthday.
The bar
The bar was always lovely to chill at. We looked after by a tremendous bunch of guys – Kunal, Pubudu, Pradeep, Kamal and the rest made sure we were relaxed. We hope we gave them a laugh too.
Atila and Vista restaurants
For breakfast and dinner, Jo Ann, chef Sugath and F&B manager ensured all our vegetarian needs were met. The team around them were attentive and helped make eating a pleasure.
Eating / drinking
Beach bar
The beach bar is a welcoming social hub. Try a bucket of ice cold beer, chilled wine or a summer cocktail.
The pina colada was yummy and the complimentary cheese board was a treat.
DJ Dulla treats you to some tunes from 5pm until 10.30pm and will accommodate special requests.
He even remembers from the previous evening, so, it was fun to hear ‘Leaving on a jet plane’, on the next visit.
Alita restaurant
The main restaurant hub for breakfast and buffet dinners.
They have themed nights but will accommodate any dietary needs. The array of food was fantastic and all very tasty.
The Greek salads were a delicious treat which were freshly prepared on request.
Then there was dessert. With so much choice, we had to share a cheeky trio of desserts to finish our meals in yummy style.
Of course our meals had to be shared with furry friends lol.
Vista Italian restaurant
A lovely little eaterie in the resort where you could tantalise your taste buds with Italian cuisine. Make sure to book a table in advance.
You had everything from fresh pasta to pizzas.
Leaving paradise
We woke up on Knox’s big birthday to an early start at 6.30am. A must if we needed to get our connection at Male to Mumbai and then from Mumbai to Goa. It was sad to go but further adventure beckoned.
Unfortunately, we had to hang around for a couple of hours, but this give us an opportunity to check out and do some touristy stuff in Male town.
Luckily the airport had luggage facilities at 6 dollars per day.
What to do in Male?
We took the public ferry from the airport to Malé centre. It was a better experience than a cab, affording us of spectacular scenery.
The China-Maldives Friendship Bridge
Another country were China has funded works. The Sinamale bridge links Male to the airport island of Hulhule and to Hulhumale. It is a great stretch of 1.39km and is beneficial to the locals as much as tourists.
Tsunami Monument
The Tsunami Monument is a memorial that honors the victims from the 2004 boxing day tsunami that devastated several countries around the Indian Ocean and the bay of Bengal.
There are balls made of steel which represent the 20 atolls of the country.
At the heart of the monument, there are iron rods that have been placed vertically, and each of them signifies the life that was lost with the victim’s name engraved on the iron rod. A time for reflection, not a smiley, posy photo that other tourists were taking!
Victory monument
The Victory Monument is one of the most important historical monuments in the Maldives, due to the coup attempt in 1988. It was erected to commemorate the victory of the people who fought against the Sri Lankan Tamil Tigers. The monument symbolizes bravery and showcases a black slab listing the names of the martyred civilians and the service members.
The colors represent the invasion, the Maldives, and the blood of the fallen heroes. Situated away from the noise of city life, the monument is a place where people come to seek peace.
Artificial beach
You will find mainly locals here, enjoying the water fully clothed. It’s a no no to sunbathe here in skimpy swimwear, or saying that, don’t even try to swim in a tee-shirt, therefore not really a sunbathing activity for tourists. The beach itself is small and not particularly clean. There are a couple of restaurants close by were you can watch at a distance.
Hukuru Miskiiy Mosque
Also known as the Male Friday Mosque, Hukuru Miskiiy was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2008 for its unique marble architecture and its unparalleled historic tradition.
Mosque is striking in its plainness, built in white marble and virtually free from decoration. Set back off the main square, Jumhooree Maidan, it is the biggest mosque in the country.
Tourists wanting to enter the mosque can only visit between 9am and 5pm, and outside of prayer times. The mosque closes to all non-Muslims 15 minutes before prayers and for the following hour. Before noon and between 2pm and 3pm are the best times to visit. Both Male and female visitors must be covered and dressed respectable.
Muliaage (Palace)
Muliaage is the official palace of the President. It marked its hundredth anniversary in 2019. Don’t expect anything fancy.
It’s closed to the public, so a quick snap is all you’ll get.
National museum
You will find the National Museum situated in Sultan Park. It is housed in a modern 4-story building, which was gifted by China in 2010.
The museum holds a collection of artifacts and treasure trove of Maldivian heritage.
Unfortunately in 2012, Islamic extremists attacked the museum and destroyed pre-Islamic artefacts dating back to the 12th century BC. Among the destroyed pieces was a rare Buddhist statue.
Open Mon-Thurs & Sunday 10am-4pm
Closed Friday and Saturday
Sultan park
Surprisingly the park was closed during the day and only opened in the evening time.
A compact shaded oasis to get out of the hot sun. Also known as, ‘the lungs of Malé, there didn’t appear to be too much as we peered through the locked gate.
Would we recommend the Maldives?
Absolutely! Would we go back? You bet! What’s not to love about paradise!
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